Car won't stay on.

[Bird87]

My car has been giving me some problems for a little while now. It started with it not being able to get to 3500rpms while driving. Taking 4-5 minutes just to get it up to 65 mph. So I changed my fuel filter out. I replaced my spark plug and spark plug boots. And checked the air filter. All good now. But the car still doesn't want to work. The car started but wouldn't go past 1500 rpms in idle. So I messed with the throttle body and some plugs to check if anything was missing or had a hole or cut or something. Looked fine to me. Now when I try to start the car, it only idles for about 4-5 seconds. And stalls out. I drilled a hole in front of the cat converter. And still no luck. I really don't want to take it to the shop. Please help.

[Falcon]

I did find this out a few years ago, if the car is in second or third gear then yes the rpms don't go above 3500. Just a thought but when this started did you make sure you are in drive and not gears 2 or 3?

[rixGAphx]

'99 4-cyl, 9-yrs old, about 108k miles?
Manual or auto?
The SES isn't 'on', or you would have mentioned that, right?

I don't know about rev/speed limitation in 1st or 2nd, but I KNOW you can redline that puppy at 6100 in 3rd gear with auto tranny.

Have you checked the FPR, with the 'suck' test?

Sure seems like your not getting enough air or fuel.
You've checked the air filter; have you checked the tube leading TO the air fliter??
Open the air filter box completely, so there's NO obstruction between atmosphere and throttle body.
Try to start engine:
* If it starts nicely, there's an obstruction in the inlet below the air filter.
* If there's no change and it doesn't start, then we KNOW it's a lack of fuel.

Fuel injectors could be horribly dirty, but I would expect to see a P03xx code for one or more cylinders misfiring.

My best guess is a faulty fuel pump, with internal vane seals that have just worn-out; the pump is no longer capable of producing any pressure (minimum 28-30 psi necessary at the injectors).
It was just barely able to flow enough fuel for 3500; now it can build-up a few spare psi before you fire the engine, but then it can't deliver enough fuel volume/pressure to even idle.

Or, the seat seal or the spring in the FPR has failed, and just isn't holding pressure anymore.

A fuel pressure test is the next logical thing; that's about a $80-100 test for a shop to perform.

A new fuel pump is about $240 and five hours work (gotta drop the fuel tank for access).
A new FPR is about $50 and 1/2 hour.

Good luck,
-Rick