Vibration Damper

[Sledge]

By any chance is this bolt LH thread...anyone.

And when so, any advice on how to remove the bolt that has been rounded off...it is very tight snapped my socket too. The torque on this is 76 Lbs ? correct?

Engine is a 96 3.1 ltr

[Sledge]

More explanation...I am taking the front cover off, the engine has a significate leak at the rear of he engine. I found the Crank balancer ( Vibration damper ) extremly tight. I finally had a six sided socket round the inside, and it rounded the bolt head as well.

I am using the chilton manual, no mention of a LH thread on this bolt, so I am assuming it si a RH thread. When I found the torque, no reason to be this tight...so I am wondering if it is a LH thread.

I would really appreciate this info, i can always try the opposite way. i am considering removing the head of the bolt, likely with a drill, then chislel. Is there enough bolt shoulder to grap the bolt and remove?

Not looking forward to this, it seems to be a hard bolt, think I seen a 10..

Any Info is greatly appreciated... Thanks.

[rixGAphx]

I am taking the front cover off, the engine has a significant leak at the rear of the engine. What you mean by ‘rear’, Willis??
You’re removing the ‘front cover’ (timing case), so is the ‘leak at the rear’:
Next to the firewall, at the side of the engine/timing case? Or,
At the ‘rear of the engine’, being driverside of the car, where the tranny is?

The gasket between the aluminum timing case housing and the iron block does fail in older 60* V6 engines; the aluminum can actually be eaten/corroded by galvanic action by contact with the iron block, in the presence of water and electricity (the grounded electrical system).

* * *
Cranknose bolts are conventional ‘right thread’ (all engines spin the same direction, and if the bolt were LH, then with any resistance upon the head it would untighten).

When that steel bolt was inserted into that iron crank nose at the factory 12 years ago, it was torqued to 75 ft.lb.
It is now ‘rust-welded’.
Soak it for a day with PB Blaster (like WD-40 on steroids); drill a 3/32” pilot hole thru the bolt head to get it into the threads/shoulder.

Get a dremel and re-grind some corners for a wrench to grip.
Do NOT use a socket to break such strong torque, a box wrench works best (unless you have pneumatic impact tools, in which case use impact sockets that are much harder than chrome-vanadium handtool sockets).
Or attack it with an 18” plumber’s pipe wrench.
Make sure the back of the crank (ringgear on the flexplate) is fully immobilized.

Good luck,
-Rick

[Sledge]

Thanks Rick, comment on the proper tool is good advice, I took the easy way using a socket with a long extension. did not think it would be so tight...and it is too late to back up. I have been soaking it now ( should of done that first)

The coolant leak is "steaming" down the right side ( passenger) side of the block along the front cover area. It is difficult to actually find the souce it is above the belt tensioner and below the power steering pump. I am assuming it is not the head gasket. No coolant in the oil. Doing this without the engine J tool is a challenge as the oil pan needs to be dropped. Once I get the front cover bolts out, I plan on re-installing the motor mount, and dropping the pan to remove the front cover. Not sure if I will have the room to do this, but will give it a try.

I need to get the Crank Balancer off first.

Will the ckps need a re-learn? It makes sense, is this just a start - run for 60 sec and then a 60 sec shut-off.....or will I need a tech 2. ?

[rixGAphx]

...the souce is above the belt tensioner and below the power steering pump.
I am assuming it is not the head gasket.Isn't the passenger end of the rear cylinder head right there?
Above the headgasket is the LIM-to-head interface, with the notorious LIM gasket right there, just ready to spout coolant outward where I think you'e describing.

I *think* you can see this end-of-LIM gasket if you remove the alternator.

[ENGGUY]

I have never seen a LH thread used. If the bolt is rounded make sure you use a good 6 point. The best way is air impact and with it you don't have to worry about keeping crank from turning. If the bolt is goofed up replace it after you get it out.

[Sledge]

Everyone is corect, I am assuming it is not the LIM, I changed that two yeas ago. As well, I have not heard many Head gasket failures. So I am removing enough to look at the Front cover seal, 90% sure, as mentioned previously Front cover has history. But now that I think about it, I think I will remove the Alt anyways...RixGphx may have poiint.

I finally removed the Balancer Bolt, PB Blaster, filed shoulders on the bolt head, and bought a good 15 mm impact socket, then applied a little heat and the darn thing almost
fell off in my hands.

Thanks for the advice, all good. next challenge will be to suspend the engine without the J tool.