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Repairs and Maintenance (Formerly known as Problems and Solutions)

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Old 11-02-2009, 03:59 AM   #21
BansheeRideR350
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Def. a great product you can use it through the fuel system, through the oil or through the intake for a top end treatment. I've only used it through the fuel and through the intake both with excellent results. Give it a shot.
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Old 11-02-2009, 05:33 PM   #22
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Yep, if you pop your hood, lay with your chest on the engine, the o2 sensor is right in your face. Easiest replacement ever, 1 wire unplug, unscrew the sensor and put in the new one. For easy search - o2 Sensor Replacement Quad4 -

Mechanic suggested Bosch, or AC Delco. Noticed today the mechanic drives a Sunfire too. Makes me feel secure knowing his own personal car is quite similar to my own.
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Old 11-02-2009, 06:07 PM   #23
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Cool glad it worked out for you. Reset your trip and see if you got any increase in fuel economy. Keep us posted.
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Old 11-03-2009, 10:51 AM   #24
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Just picked up my new o2 sensor and some new spark plug boots (old ones startin to disintegrate)

Letting my engine cool off for about 20 mins then I'm gonna spray down the old sensor with liquid wrench, disconnect my negative terminal, pop out the old sensor and plug in the new guy.

I also got some seafoam treatment. Hopefully I'll have a purring GA by the end of the day

Fella at autoparts store was telling me to buy the bosch spark plugs also, but I just changed my damn plugs under 10k ago, so I said nothanks
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Old 11-03-2009, 12:17 PM   #25
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If its running cold you might want to check your thermostat as well. It could be opening way too early and causing the car to run that cool.
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Old 11-03-2009, 01:47 PM   #26
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I'll have to check the thermostat next week, my time off for the week is over

Got the SOB O2 Sensor out, ended up ripping the shit out of my knuckles before relenting and going out to buy the proper o2sensor socket LoL... made the job simple.

Fillup at the pump, before new sensor - 315 kilo from 33 Litres, just under 10L/100KM (Slightly better than last time, but I think its because I did pure highway driving for those 300k)

I'll post back with my next fillup, with my new sensor and the seafoam treatment in my current tank of gas..


So wheredo I find the thermostat?
And is it as simple a job as the o2 Sensor?
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Old 11-03-2009, 05:03 PM   #27
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Thermo is sitting in the top of the coolant inlet pipe. This pipe has the lower radiator hose connected to it, and it runs under the motor and up into the water pump housing. Basically after you drain the coolant you would unbolt the pipe from the oil pan (on my 2.4 it's connected to the oil pan by a stud not sure if the same goes for yours) then its connected to the water pump housing by two more bolts which i belive you'll need an extension to go through the exhaust manifold runners to get at these bolts. I did this when i changed the water pump so the exhaust manifold was out and on the floor already.

It's not as easy as the o2 sensor job but it's not that hard in my opinion. After those two bolts are taken out that hold the pipe to the water pump housing the pipe comes down and the thermostat is sitting in the top of it with a seal. Make sure you change the seal too.

I was also thinking that about the thermostat due to how cold you said the engine was running i just wasnt sure if that was because of how cold it is up there, im in florida so i don't deal with that problem often if its running to cool down here its always the thermostat or an incorrect reading on the gauge. But as cold as it is up there it may just be that the cold air is keeping the engine a little too cool.

How was it in the warmer months..? Did it also run down to 160* and 180* while driving then too?
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Old 11-04-2009, 09:03 AM   #28
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x2 for checking the fuel pressure regulator. As for the temps, the Q4 and 2.4L engines have a 180 thermostat in them. 175-180 is normal.
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Old 11-04-2009, 10:27 AM   #29
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yea, same for the summer months, a hair above the 1/4 mark.. highest I've ever seen the temp go was the halfway mark

Gonna use my chilton's and seek out the thermostat next week, barring terrible weather.
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Old 11-04-2009, 03:35 PM   #30
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Day 2 of new sensor.

Started my car up this morning, brisk morning. Car starts fine, I let it sit and idle as I light up a smoke and clean some crap outta my back seat.

Suddenly I hear my car start to 'sputter' as if its gonna die, so I move to the front and give it a little gas, gets the idle back up and keeps it steady, figure I better not sit and risk it, so I drive to work.

I leave work and start up my car, didn't let it idle as much as I had some hot food I wanted to stay hot til I got home. While pulling out I let the car drive itself for about 20metres (drive itself as in my foot off the accelerater but still creeping forwards.. While creeping the car sounds like its starting to 'sputter' out again, so i give it a touch of gas, it doesn't respond instantaneously but then gives me 'all the gas it forgot to give' with the previous touch of the gas... as if it stored the data for the amount of gas and then sent it all in one shot.

Car ran fine the rest of the drive home.

Car's idle seems to be very gentle compared the idle before I changed the o2 Sensor.

Anyone experience a similar thing? Maybe its my car getting used to the new o2 sensor?

Oh, I also added a full can of Seafoam to my last gas tank, if that matters.

Any helpful input appreciated

Last edited by Jamesc; 11-04-2009 at 03:40 PM.
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Old 11-04-2009, 03:52 PM   #31
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Did you disconnect the battery when you put the new o2 sensor in? Your ECM might need to be reset to relearn the fuel tables (not sure if your system works like obd2 systems do). The full can of SeaFoam on top of that could be doing it too, the 1 pint (16oz) can is made to treat 25 gallons
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Old 11-04-2009, 04:08 PM   #32
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aye I disconnected the battery, mebbe i should leave it disconnected for another 10mins? Negative terminal or both?

The can of seafoam said each can was good for 30-95 litres got about 4/5 into my car (the rest spilled all over the floor)
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Old 11-04-2009, 04:10 PM   #33
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I know the OBD2 PCM's need to be disconnected for 10 minutes to reset, so I don't think it'd hurt. Negative only, no need to remove both of them. The engine could be stalling because it's moving contaminants through the system, or because Seafoam doesn't have octane, so it doesn't burn like gas.
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Old 11-04-2009, 04:22 PM   #34
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Yea, I'm thinking its the seafoam, can said 30-95L for the bottle, I'm starting to think it meant, 95 litres for the whole bottle, and 30 litres for 1/3 or something. Oh well, whats done is done.

See any adverse permanent effects from using too much seafoam? Within reason of course
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Old 11-04-2009, 06:35 PM   #35
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I use the whole can in my galant and my GA with no sputtering...

Did you leave the negative disconnected for 10 mins then try it...i think if the ecm had an issue with the new sensor it would have tossed a code already..if this doesn't work just wait until that gas is gone and see if it does it with out the seafoam although i never had an issue using the whole can before.
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Old 11-04-2009, 07:02 PM   #36
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Yea I planned on waiting until the next tank to do anything. The idle is smooth as butter now tho, does seem to 'die down' a little bit tho, as compared to before.

Was at a long stop light today with the car at about 185 Fahrenheit (Built up temp from idling) and the car just sat there, purring very gently, seems great.

Car drops to roughly 165 Fahrenheit while driving, no difference from the 90 Degree fahrenheit weather to the current 40-50

While installing the new spark plug boots, I did notice the far right cylinder spark plug (when facing the engine from the front of the car) had oil on it, not a whole lot, and the little.. bay.. down where my sparkplugs are does have a fair bit of oil... I cleaned up a good portion of it only leaving some on the surfaces for rust. Perhaps the old cracked/disintegrated boots/wires had leaked a little bit? I installed the new boots/wires by clipping them first into the aluminum covering plate, and dropping it straight down onto the spark plugs.

Last edited by Jamesc; 11-04-2009 at 07:05 PM.
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Old 11-04-2009, 07:12 PM   #37
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I wouldn't worry about the little bit of oil just make sure the plugs are torqued properly.

The 165* reading may just be from the cold weather as i mentioned already im really not sure, but with the temp climbing up to 185 while sitting still makes me think the thermo is fine.
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Old 11-04-2009, 07:56 PM   #38
Jamesc
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just returned from a friends house, had to park on a good 14-16 degree angled hill, facing up the hill. Got back in car and started it up, still was pretty close to operating temp. Put it in drive and it started to sputter fairly bad, i was lightly tapping the accelerator, it almost died but then with bit more gas drove like normal.

Question, on normal startup should I see my CEL Light come on for a second or so? I've never even SEEN the CEL come on, not once that I can recall. I've had the light that is the outline of an engine come on, but never the one with that outline -and- the words 'Check Engine'. Is the outline of the motor my CEL? If not then I'm wondering if my CEL bulb is burnt out, although I would figure my mechanic would have noticed that?

Last edited by Jamesc; 11-04-2009 at 07:59 PM.
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Old 11-04-2009, 08:14 PM   #39
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As for your original question yes as long as it goes off after the initial light up then thats normal.

For your second question... the outline of the engine is your CEL.
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Old 11-04-2009, 08:37 PM   #40
Jamesc
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Aha. I wish that I had known the outline was the CEL light. It's flashed on before, my car would feel like my tranny had locked up or something, happens once in a great while and goes away when I let off the gas completely and then accelerate. Popped my CEL light on but only comes on when that happens. It's happened maybe 3-5 times, figured its just an old car and everything doesnt 'sync up' sometimes.
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